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ALMA-ATA (Kazakh - Almaty), a city at the northern foot of the Trans-Ili Alatau, on the Bolshaya and Malaya Almatinka rivers (Republic of Kazakhstan). Founded in 1854 as a Russian military fortification, since 1867 the city of Verny has been the center of the Semirechensk region as part of the Turkestan Governor-General. Since 1921 A.-A. In 1929-36 the capital of the Kazakh Autonomous Soviet Socialist Republic as part of the RSFSR, in 1936-90 - the Kazakh SSR (since 1990 the Republic of Kazakhstan). In 1991-98 the capital of the Republic of Kazakhstan.

Almaty is a rather interesting city in Kazakhstan, where the capital of the country was located until 1997, and which is currently the unofficially recognized southern capital of the republic. Almaty has still retained those important metropolitan qualities that were formed in it during its stay as the main center of the republic. However, despite the fact that it is no longer such, the city has not lost its charm and attractiveness, remaining as valuable to the people and the country as many years ago.

The city is located at the foot of the Trans-Ili Alatau mountains in the extreme southeast of the republic, at the northernmost ridge of the Tien Shan, it rises from 600 to 1650 meters above sea level. The city has a sharply continental climate, the air temperature varies sharply not only throughout the year, but also during the day. Almaty has several small rivers, among which the Bolshaya and Malaya Almatinka, as well as their tributaries, stand out. The city's main water resources are rivers and lakes.

Now Almaty is the most important state, cultural and scientific center, where the country's main universities, the Academy of Sciences, national theaters, as well as hundreds of monuments and fountains are located. Almaty is also the sports capital of Kazakhstan; the Asian Winter Games will be held here in 2011.

Population
The total number of city residents as of 2009 was 1,365,105 people, but this figure may not be entirely accurate, since in addition to registered citizens, Almaty is also home to a large number of illegal migrants who came to the city in search of work or simply a better life; it is approximately 13%. Thus, the number of city residents can reach 2 million people. The population density is 4,379 people/sq.km. In terms of ethnic composition, the city is quite multinational; representatives of such nations as Kazakhs, Russians, Uyghurs, Tatars, Koreans, Germans, Ukrainians, Turks and others live here. People here speak different languages, the predominant ones being Kazakh and Russian. The city is characterized by multi-confessionalism. Followers of world religions such as Islam (specifically Sunnism), Christianity (Orthodoxy, Protestantism and Catholicism), Judaism and other less common beliefs live and work here.

Alma-Ata was the last capital and largest city of the Kazakh SSR

Name
On the site of the modern city, already in the late Middle Ages there was a camp of Turkic and Mongolian nomads. At that time it was called Almaty. A more recent history for the city begins in 1854, when on the site of the settlement of the Kazakh nomads Almaty (translated as “apple tree”) a Russian military fortification was built called Zailiyskoye, later renamed Verny, then in 1867 - Almatinskoye, then Verny. In 1921 the city was given the name Alma-Ata. Literally this name can be translated as “Apple-Grandfather”, since “alma” in Kazakh means “apple”, in Soviet publications the name of the city was translated more poetically - “Father of Apples”. Since 1993, the city began to be officially called Almaty in Kazakh and Russian languages. Currently, this name is correct, although the old name, Alma-Ata, is widespread in Russia.

History of the city of Almaty
The first settlements of early farmers and cattle breeders on the territory of Almaty appeared in the 10th - 9th centuries BC. Other historical sources prove that here in the 6th - 3rd centuries BC. there were settlements of the famous tribes of the Sakas, and later the Usuns. The most significant finds dating back to this period are the Saka mounds, the largest of which reached 20 meters in height, and the diameter at the base was over 100 meters. They were located mainly along the banks of the Bolshaya and Malaya Almatinok, Vesnovka, and Aksay rivers. Several urban settlements were founded in this region between the 8th and 10th centuries. And one of them was named “Almaty”. This settlement was quite prosperous, since in ancient times it lay on a section of the famous Great Silk Road between Europe and China. The 13th century turned out to be difficult for Almaty, when it, like many cities in Central Asia, was destroyed by the warlike army of Genghis Khan. Later, with the decline of the Great Silk Road, the city completely lost any significance and in its place a typical aul was formed in the 16th century.

Main Post Office. 1931 - 34. Architect G. G. Gerasimov.

A new life for a small settlement began on February 4, 1854, when the Russians erected a military fortification on this site. 470 soldiers and officers of the Russian army settled here. Since 1855, the settlement began to grow dynamically, mainly due to the presence of Russian settlers here. From now on, the city began to actively develop: the Bolshaya and Malaya Almaty Stanitsas, the Tatarskaya Slobodka, and the “Government Garden” (now the Central Park of Culture and Leisure) emerged. In 1858, with the opening of the first brewery, the local manufacturing industry began to develop. In 1859, 5 thousand people already lived in the city, and in 1860 the first hospital and post office opened.

In April 1867, Verny became the center of the Semirechensk region as part of the Turkestan General Government.

On May 28, 1887, a powerful earthquake occurred, killing 322 people and destroying 1,798 brick houses. In memory of the tragedy, people built a small chapel, which, unfortunately, was demolished in 1927. Soon after the earthquake, a seismic and meteorological station was established in the city, and houses began to be built taking into account seismicity and mainly from wood. Thus, large wooden buildings of the city were built - the House of the Military Assembly Regiment, the Cathedral, and the House of Public Assembly.

In 1918, Soviet power came to Verny. The city and region became part of the Turkestan Autonomy (TASSR) as part of the RSFSR. On April 3, 1927, the capital of the Cossack Autonomous Soviet Socialist Republic was moved from Kyzylorda to Alma-Ata, which was the reason for the further development of the city in all areas of its life. Almaty also remained the capital of the newly formed Kazakh SSR in 1936, and of independent Kazakhstan in 1991.

Sights of Almaty.
Kok-Tyube.

Translated from Kazakh it is “Green Hill”; in the mid-20th century it was called “Verigin Mountain”. This hill is located not far from Almaty; residential areas are located almost at the foot. The mountain rises 1130 meters above sea level. Kok-Tobe is one of the main attractions of the city, as well as a place of republican importance. Here, right on its slopes, is the famous Almaty television tower with a height of 372 meters. You can climb the hill by road, or by cable car, built back in 1967. As it is popularly called, the “cable car” passes over a part of the old city built up with private houses, often called “kompot”. The area received this unusual name thanks to the fruit streets that make it up: Yablochnaya, Grushovaya and others.

Almaty TV Tower

In the spring of 2004, an unpleasant event occurred on Mount Kok-Tyube: after heavy rains, the ground began to crack, the soil evaporated, and the buildings built on the hill collapsed. There was a real threat of a landslide, which would cause enormous damage to the residential areas located at the foot. Therefore, local authorities, in order to avoid such an emergency situation, decided to close the mountain. Work has begun to keep the soil from further sliding. Today, the “restored” Mount Kok-Tyube is again open to visitors and delights them with its bright green slopes. Almaty TV tower.

The TV and radio broadcasting tower is located on the slopes of Mount Kok-Tyube. Its height is 372 meters, there are two observation platforms, which can be reached by high-speed elevators. However, despite all the conditions provided, the tower is closed to tourists. The structure was erected between 1975 and 1983 and is one of the most earthquake-resistant buildings in the world. The Palace of the Republic is located at the intersection of Dostyk Avenue and Abay Avenue. The main purpose of the palace is to host concerts, festivals and other cultural events. The building has been the pride of Almaty since the reign of Dinmukhamed Kunaev. On the square in front of the palace you can see fountains and a monument to the Kazakh poet Abai Kunanbayev. The history of the palace begins in 1970, when it was still called the Palace of Culture named after V.I. Lenin. In 1971, its creators (V. Yu. Alle, V. N. Kim, Yu. G. Ratushny, N. I. Ripinsky, A. G. Sokolov, L. L. Ukhobotov, etc.) for their marble work of art were awarded the USSR State Prize.

Beatles Monument

The Beatles Monument. It is the first monument to the world's most famous Fab Four erected in the CIS. The monument is quite young. It was installed only in 2007, it is located on Mount Kok-Tyube. The author of the bronze Beatles was Eduard Kazaryan. The composition depicts only John Lennon seated, with a guitar in his hand. If you wish, you can sit next to the metal “double” of the musician. George Harrison, Ringo Starr and Paul McCartney are shown standing.

Park named after 28 Panfilov guardsmen. The park is located in the Medeu district of the city, covering an area of ​​18 hectares. In the park you can see various species of trees: elm, oak, aspen, maple, pine, spruce, as well as a complex of structures that give the already picturesque park an even more impressive look. Among the buildings in the park one can highlight the Ascension Cathedral, the Memorial of Glory, the House of Officers, the Ykylas Museum of Folk Musical Instruments, and the Monument to I.V. Panfilov.
The park was founded in the 70s of the 19th century, when Verny itself was still under construction. The name of the park has changed many times over its more than century-long existence. This park was the Pushkin Garden, and the Park of those who fell for freedom, and the Federation Park, until, finally, it began to honor with its name the 28 soldiers of the 1075th regiment of the 316th division, who accomplished a feat in the defense of Moscow during the Great Patriotic War.

Zenkov Cathedral in Almaty.

Ascension Cathedral. This Russian Orthodox Church cathedral is located in the center of the park. A unique wooden structure, built in 1904 - 1907 by the famous architect A.P. Zenkov, became an excellent example of an earthquake-resistant structure, which in 1911 withstood a strong earthquake of 10 points. Moreover, the height of the temple is 54 meters. The internal structure of the cathedral was made in art workshops in Moscow and Kyiv. The iconostasis was painted by artist N.G. Khludov. It was used as a religious institution until 1927. During the Soviet era, the cathedral building housed a local history museum. In 1995, the temple was returned to the Russian Orthodox Church, and in 1997, after careful restoration work, bells began to ring here again and Orthodox services were held.
In 2007, the National Bank of Kazakhstan issued a coin in denomination of 500 tenge, on the reverse of which the Orthodox Ascension Cathedral is depicted. 4,000 silver coins were issued with the aim of promoting greater understanding of the entire culture of Kazakhstan, promoting the presentation of religion as a peaceful teaching about the spiritual and moral self-improvement of the individual. The obverse of the coin depicts the coat of arms of Kazakhstan.

Memorial of Glory.

It was built in 1975 on the occasion of the 30th anniversary of the Victory in the park of 28 Panfilov guardsmen, in the same year the Eternal Flame was lit. The opening of the memorial took place on May 8, 1975. The first part of it is the high relief “Oath” (on the left side) - it is dedicated to the young fighters for Soviet power in Kazakhstan. The central part of the triptych “Feat” captures the images of heroes who defended Moscow at the cost of their own lives. On the right is the composition “Trumpets of Glory”, which gives the entire memorial an optimistic sound; its images embody the hymn of a triumphant life. Near the Eternal Flame there are massive cubes made of labradorite, under which are walled up capsules with earth delivered from the hero cities.

House of Officers.

The former building of the district officers' house was built in 1978, the authors of which were Yu. G. Ratushny, O. N. Balykbaev, T. E. Eraliev. The house is located near the eastern entrance to the park named after 28 Panfilov guardsmen. The building is a magnificent architectural landmark of the city. Stone, aluminum, decorative plastics, synthetic materials, leather and other materials were used in interior decoration. The strict combination of colors of the white shell rock of the attic floor with the black veins of flagstone gives the building a special solemn appearance. Museum of Folk Musical Instruments named after Ykylas.

Today the museum is located in the former House of Officers' Assembly, the building of which was built back in 1908, but the museum began operating in 1980. All kinds of musical instruments, mainly Kazakh, are collected here - the pride of the Kazakh people. In the past, many outstanding folk singers, poets, and composers used them when composing new musical works of art and simply to the delight of listeners. Over a thousand exhibits are kept in the Almaty Museum, which are of particular interest and value for true admirers of this kind of art. The interior of the museum is decorated in the traditional Kazakh style, using motifs of such folk patterns as agash - the tree of life, shynjara - running waves, uzilmes - a climbing stem. Central Mosque.

The mosque was built in July 1999 and is currently the largest monument in Kazakhstan - a symbol of the Muslim religion. The building is decorated with marble and colored tiles, reflecting the national culture of the country. A huge blue dome rises above the mosque, and next to it there is a minaret 47 meters high. Independence Monument.

Medeo.
Medeo is a sports complex built in 1972 in the gorge of the same name, located 15 km from the city. The peculiarity of the Medeo skating rink is that it is located at an altitude of 1500 m above sea level, a special role is played by the quality of the ice, based only on the purest mountain water without any admixtures of salts, and rarefied air. Interestingly, over 33 years, 126 world records were set at the high-altitude skating rink. This is why the skating rink is also called the “record factory”. In the 1990s, Medeo was the site of the Voice of Asia international music festival. On December 16, 2009, the sports complex, as well as the Chimbulak ski resort, located a little higher, were reopened after reconstruction.

In 2011, speed skating and bandy competitions are planned to be held on the ice of the Medeo sports complex under the program of the VII Asian Winter Games.
Fountains of Almaty.

Today in the city of Almaty there are more than 120 fountains, 61 of which are communal property. Together with the extensive irrigation ditch network, the fountains create a single complex of reservoirs and watercourses in the city. The first fountain in Almaty appeared in 1948; it marked the beginning of the so-called “fountain cult” in the city. As a result, every year May 25 is celebrated as Fountain Day, when at 9 pm a water show begins in every fountain in the city. Every year from May 25 to September 15, the fountains operate regularly from 10 a.m. to 2 a.m.

Monuments of Almaty.

The city has a huge number of monuments erected in honor of various cultural, artistic and political figures, or a specific event. Here you can find a monument for every taste and color, of any size, made from any material. None of the city’s guests will remain dissatisfied - each monument has something exceptional, and the sculptors approached the design of each of them individually.

Photos and names of Almaty attractions are unusual. Mount Kok-Tobe, whose name is translated from Kazakh as “Green Hill,” amazes with its beauty. It is located near the city, and there is a television tower on it, which, due to its location, is the tallest structure in Almaty.

Symbols of Almaty

The Kok-Tobe rock and the tower are the main symbols of the second capital. To enjoy the magnificent view from the top, you can climb to the observation deck by cable car, which starts almost from the city center. In just six minutes of ascent you will see Almaty from different angles. After climbing the rock, visit “Kok-Tobe Park”, where you can:

• see the monument to the legendary group “The Beatles”;

Monument to The Beatles in Kok-Tobe Park Ken and Nyetta

• throw coins into the “Fountain of Wishes”;
• relax in a cafe or restaurant, of which there are many here;

Cafe on the street in Almaty tjabeljan

• visit a climbing wall;
• visit an art gallery.

Independence Monument in Almaty tjabeljan

Independence Monument

The historical development of Almaty and the country as a whole is symbolized by the Independence Monument, rising on the central square. He represents the “golden man” standing on a winged leopard and controlling it. This composition symbolizes firmness of will and invincibility of power.

Kok-Tobe TV tower in Almaty Nomosb

Be sure to watch this beautiful video about Almaty!

Palace of the Republic

In addition to the Kok-Tobe TV tower, visible from all points of the city, among the religious buildings of Almaty one can note the Palace of the Republic, which can accommodate 3,000 people. Exhibitions and important conferences are constantly held here, as well as concerts by world stars.

Palace of the Republic in Almaty tjabeljan

Other interesting places in Almaty

Not far from the Palace of the Republic there are such famous buildings of the city as the Kazakhstan Hotel and the Arman Cinema. The first establishment is a calling card not only of Almaty, but also of the entire republic, since the high-rise 102-meter building from the times of the USSR is a symbol of the country.

Orthodox Holy Ascension Cathedral in Almaty Stomac

An interesting place in the city, located in the park named after. 28 Panfilov guardsmen - Russian Orthodox Holy Ascension Cathedral, which was previously called the Turkestan Cathedral. The building is made of wood and its beauty has no equal in the whole world. The exterior of the cathedral is impressively colorful, especially the 5 unusual colored domes with crosses. The interior of the building is also magnificent: manuscripts on the walls, a painted iconostasis and other religious decorative elements that have been preserved since the beginning of the 20th century.

Central mosque in Almaty MaratD

In Almaty, the main place of worship is the Central Mosque. It has an unusual appearance: a structure made in white, decorated with blue domes that symbolize harmony and simplicity. The courtyard of the mosque is equipped with a cozy square with alleys, benches and flower lawns, so it is comfortable to relax here. The building itself is one of the largest in the republic; it can accommodate up to 7,000 people.

Central State Museum in Almaty Tisoiso

The city is famous for the Central State Museum, which is the largest in Kazakhstan. Here you can see the three hundred thousandth exhibition of exhibits of the republic’s heritage, presented by:

• national clothes;
• yurt;
• objects of nomadic tribes;

Household items - exhibits of the museum in Almaty Jean-Pierre Dalbéra

• armor and weapons of warriors;
• embroidered products;
• jewelry.

Museums of Almaty

The history of Almaty can also be studied in the city museum. Although it was opened recently, it has already collected a considerable number of historical objects: from the Bronze Age to the present day. Among the interesting exhibitions are:

• Museum of Art with an art gallery of works by Russian and Kazakh authors;
• Natural Museum with an exhibition dedicated to the flora and fauna of the republic;
• Geological Museum with a unique collection of minerals.

Archaeological site in Almaty m.prinke

In Kazakhstan, many important and valuable objects were found during excavations, including the bones of ancient animals, fossils and disappeared minerals. All this can be seen today in Almaty museums, so a tour of the exhibitions will be educational and unforgettable.

Giraffes at the zoo in Almaty Aiganym Kairbekova

Where to go with a child in Almaty

It is interesting to visit the Almaty Zoo. On its fairly large area there are sections with a variety of animals and an aquarium. Many of the species presented are in the Red Book. To relax in silence in nature, you can visit the “Park of the First President”; the territory is decorated with the largest fountain in the city.

City fountain in the Park of the First President in Almaty Andrey.moiseyev

Children and adults will be interested in watching the vibrant circus performances. In the city, the circus building is decorated with a hyperbolic dome, erected in 1972 and recognized as an example of civil architecture. The key performance in the circus arena is an equestrian performance with the participation of Zhaidarbek Kunguzhinov. Basically, the artists taking part in the performances are gymnasts, tightrope walkers, and horse riders, who have been awarded various prizes and have taken first places at many festivals and competitions.

Green bazaar in Almaty Spacekid

For memorable gifts, you can go to the huge colorful markets of Almaty. One of the most visited places by tourists is the Green Bazaar.

Winter attractions in Almaty and active recreation

Ice skating rink at the Medeo sports complex in Almaty Vmenkov

Interesting photos of Almaty sights are also presented in winter. So, it is definitely worth visiting the high-altitude sports facility “Medeo” at this time of year, which is the largest in the world. It is located in the tract of the same name in the Trans-Ili Alatau near Almaty at an altitude of 1700 m above sea level. During the free period from competitions, which is from October to April, tourists and Almaty residents enjoy skating at the Medeo complex. On the outskirts of the city there are also ski resorts where skiers, snowboarders, and freestyle skiers love to spend time. Such favorite places include:

• Shymbulak – there are slopes for beginners and experienced skiers here, and there are also routes for downhill skiing. In the summer, the ski resort organizes a camp for children, a rope park and excursion hikes in the mountains;
• Tabagan is an all-season sports and recreation complex, where in the summer you can ride mountain bikes, skate, play tennis and volleyball, visit saunas and massage rooms, and in winter there is a ski resort;
• Ak-Bulak – operates throughout the year. Here you can ski, snowboard and snowmobile.

Beach on the shore of Lake Kapchagay Torekhan Sarmanov

Ecological tourism in Almaty

After getting acquainted with all the interesting places, be sure to take photos of the sights of Almaty. Ecological tourists love to travel here, since numerous tourist routes pass near Almaty. Those who like to walk should visit the Ile-Alatau Natural Park. It is large in size and occupies over 200,000 hectares. In the reserve you can see more than 1000 different plants, and the number of species of different animals exceeds 1500. Most of the animals and birds inhabiting the Ile-Alatau Natural Park are in the Red Book. The Almaty Nature Reserve with its lush coniferous and deciduous forest vegetation is no less attractive.

A great place for walking is the Kolsai Lakes Park. The name of this attraction indicates that there are beautiful alpine lakes on its territory. Tourists have the opportunity to climb the mountains and admire numerous unique and interesting places along the way. Also popular are horseback riding in the foothills.

Yuri Ivankov

Those who like to go down mountain reservoirs can go to the Ili River. It begins in the rocks of the Tien Shan, flowing into Lake Balkhash. The Altyn-Amel National Park is also located here.

All the sights in Almaty amaze with their beauty and diversity. In the city and its surroundings you can have a great holiday according to your taste and financial capabilities. After visiting Almaty, be sure to visit Astana! We have prepared for you a review of the best ones so that you can be inspired for your further travel around Kazakhstan.

Major historical milestones

As evidenced by burial mounds found on the territory of modern Almaty, the first inhabitants here were the nomadic tribes of the Sakas, who were later replaced by the Usuns. However, full-fledged settlements appeared in this area only in the 8th century. One of them, called Almaty, gave the name to the future city.

The official date of foundation of the first capital of Kazakhstan can be considered 1854, when the Russian Tsar decided to build military fortifications in the area of ​​the Malaya Almatinka River. As a result, by 1855, a full-fledged city grew up on the territory adjacent to the fortress, which received the name Verny.

With the advent of Soviet power, Verny became part of the Turkestan Autonomy and was renamed Alma-Ata (from the Kazakh “almaty” - “apple tree”). And in 1927, the city became the official capital of the Kazakh Autonomous Soviet Socialist Republic, which it remained until the end of the 90s.

In 1997, Nursultan Nazarbayev decided to move the capital of the republic to Akmola (today Astana), while the status of the cultural and economic core of the country still remained with Almaty.

Geography and climate

Almaty is located in the south-eastern part of Kazakhstan, at the foot of the northern slope of the Tien Shan ridge - Trans-Ili Alatau. The climate in the vicinity of the city is continental with traditional mountain-valley winds and, accordingly, sharp temperature fluctuations. In the southern regions of the metropolis, the proximity of glaciers is clearly felt (the vicinity of Medeo). However, compared to other settlements in the Northern and Central parts of the republic, the climate in Almaty is much milder.

The coldest month of the year is January with an average of -4.7 °C. At the same time, the decrease in temperature occurs unevenly: in the center of the city there is a so-called “heat island”, whose daily thermometer marks noticeably contrast with the Almaty outskirts. The average July temperature in Almaty is +23.8 °C. The summer heat here is significantly softened by the position of the city (650-900 m above sea level) and the night breeze from the mountains and local rivers.

Water resources

The hydrographic map of Almaty is represented by only two rivers - Bolshaya and Malaya Almatinka, as well as their tributaries - Esentai, Karasu, Zharbulak and Remizovka. However, due to the developed system of reservoirs, canals and river cascades, the illusion is created that there are many more reservoirs in the city. A characteristic feature of the Almaty landscape is the numerous “ruts” of irrigation ditches, most of which have existed since tsarist times. There is a misconception among tourists that these small waterways are part of the city's drainage system. In fact, ditches supply local parks and public gardens with life-giving moisture, and at the same time act as a natural air conditioner, bringing with them pleasant coolness on hot summer days.

Ecological situation

Alas, Almaty cannot yet boast of clean air. In 2010, the southern capital of Kazakhstan was included in the list of the dirtiest cities in the world, and all because of the growing amount of transport, poisoning the atmosphere with gases and decay products. The city is constantly shrouded in a thick blanket of smog, so it is literally difficult to breathe here. Almaty also suffers from overcrowding: the city, originally designed for 400,000 residents, today has a population of about 1.8 million people. The transfer of the state capital to Astana partly “unloaded” the metropolis, but by and large did not solve the problem of overpopulation. The already unsightly situation is aggravated by the ban on the construction of new residential complexes within the city, stubbornly supported by the republican government.

Districts of Almaty

Today, the former capital of Kazakhstan is divided into 8 districts:

• Alatau;
• Almalinsky;
• Auezovsky;
• Bostandyksky;
• Zhetysusky;
• Medeusky;
• Nauryzbaysky;
• Turksibsky;

From a tourist point of view, the most interesting part of the city is the Medeu district, where the main attractions, the high-mountain sports complex "Medeo" and park areas (Central Park of Culture and Recreation, Park of 28 Panfilov Men) are concentrated. It makes sense to look into the Bostandyk and Almaly districts, famous for their museums and cinemas.

Sights and interesting places

There are no truly ancient architectural monuments in Almaty, so tourists who come here have to be content with either the gigantic heritage of the Soviet era like the Palace of the Republic, or religious sites (churches, monasteries, mosques). Of the latter, the most notable are the Iversko-Seraphim Convent, founded in 1908, the Almaty Central City Mosque, St. Nicholas Cathedral, the Intercession of All Saints Church, built entirely of wood, the Baiken Mosque and the Ascension Cathedral. Authentic monuments include the mausoleum of Raimbek Batyr (the legendary Kazakh leader) and the Independence Monument.

Despite the not-so-favorable environmental situation within the city, the nature in the vicinity of Almaty is simply fabulous. 15 km south of the former capital is the Big Almaty Lake - the main supplier of fresh water for residents of the metropolis and simply a unique natural object that arose back in the Ice Age. Hidden in a picturesque gorge and hidden from the outside world by mountain ranges, the reservoir belongs to the Ile-Alatau National Natural Park and is a protected object.

You can breathe clean air and appreciate the spectacular panorama of the city, shrouded in a constant veil of smog, at the top of Mount Kok Tobe. To save energy and at the same time look at the life of the bustling human “anthill” from a new angle, buy a ticket for the funicular that runs between Kok-Tobe and the center of the southern capital. There is some infrastructure on the mountain areas, and not so long ago a new park opened here, among the attractions of which is a bench surrounded by bronze Beatles, a Fountain of Wishes in the form of a giant apple and a mini zoo. Kok Tobe also has its own cafe, with expectedly inflated prices aimed at tourists.

For leisurely walks alone or with children, the city botanical garden is ideal. The place is calm, cozy and clean, although not amazing. And don’t forget to bring nuts – there are wonderful tame squirrels in the garden. But it’s worth paying a visit to the inhabitants of the Almaty Zoo, which dates back to 1935, only if you are not afraid of the prospect of seeing animals that are not entirely happy and far from well-fed. The establishment does not have the best reputation, and financing is a bit tight here.

The park of 28 Panfilov men also deserves its share of attention, in the central part of which there is a memorial erected in memory of the unprecedented feat of the heroic division, and an eternal flame burns. Nearby there is a monument to internationalist soldiers, as well as a museum of folk instruments.

Tourists who are partial to all kinds of sports facilities will be interested in visiting the Medeo tract, where the ice complex of the same name, considered the largest in the world, is located. Medeo is known for its perfect ice surface and is open to everyone. The cost of an entrance ticket to the skating rink for an adult visitor ranges around 1800 tenge (328 rubles). As an alternative to Medeo, you can choose the Chimbulak ski resort with its special slopes for beginners and professionals. A day pass on weekdays here will cost around 5,500 tenge (1,002 rubles). On holidays, the cost of a subscription jumps to 7,000 tenge (1,276 rubles).

Almaty is a city of fountains. Today there are about 120 of them on the territory of the Southern capital, and only 61 fountains are in the municipal ownership of the city. The most unusual and interesting are considered to be “Week” on Baseitov Street, “Oriental Calendar” on Pushkin Street, fountains on Republic Square and in the Park named after the First President on Al-Farabi Avenue.

You can satisfy your cultural hunger at any of the city's 10 theaters, art galleries or local museums. If you want to learn more about Kazakhstan, go to the Central State Museum, whose holdings number about 300,000 items. It is better to look at the mortal remains of mammoths in the Museum of Archeology at the Academy of Sciences. There are also interesting exhibits in the railway museum; in particular, here you can look at the legendary Morse apparatus.

Don't pass by the Green Bazaar, which to some extent is also a city landmark. In terms of assortment and atmosphere, this is a real oriental market, so you can buy everything there, as well as lose it - petty thieves are something of a national symbol here. Tasting a product and “bringing down” the price on the main trading platform of Almaty is in the order of things, so be sure to take advantage of this pleasant opportunity.

Restaurants and cafes

The menu of most Almaty restaurants is not limited to one specific cuisine, so there are not many establishments that serve exclusively national dishes in the southern capital. Of the more or less status options, “Gakku” and “Zhety Kazyna” still remain faithful to traditions. But you can find a cafe where they cook in the “Asian-mix” style without any extra effort. You can have a satisfying and inexpensive meal in the “Territory of Delicious Food” and “As-Kazan”, where there is a good selection of lagmans. In “Alash” the prices are already much higher, but the interiors are also richer. There are also plenty of places where they specialize in European and Mediterranean dishes (“Presso”, “Bear”, “Del Papa”). Well, the best way to relax in pleasant company and experiment with exotic cocktails is in local pubs (RestoBar, Mad Murphy's Irish Pub, Chukotka, Banka Bar).

What to bring from Almaty

Take with you a bar of chocolate and a kilogram of sweets from the local Rakhat confectionery factory, whose products have been exported for several years. You can also stock up on homeopathic preparations from the Kyzylmay company - balms, vegetable oils, herbal teas and all kinds of dietary supplements. The manufacturer himself claims that there are no analogues of its products in the world yet.

Another gift option from the former capital of Kazakhstan is Rakhmet tea, produced by the local Asia Tea factory. There are a lot of varieties: black, green, with fruit additives. In addition, Almaty is home to the Bacchus winery, whose cognacs and other alcoholic drinks can be easily purchased in the city’s branded stores.

If you need something as a keepsake, take a closer look at the leather and felt products with which all the souvenir and antique shops here are chock-full. Corpse patchwork quilts look very unique. You can buy them at local markets or in the same souvenir shops.

Transport

Transport traditions in Almaty are quite specific. Until recently, one could see buses, trolleybuses and even trams on city streets, but not a single minibus, which is officially prohibited here. Bus fares are usually paid through a validator; the average cost of a trip is around 80 tenge.

In 2016, tram lines in the city were dismantled, so buses, trolleybuses and local taxis remain the main types of ground transport in the southern capital. Private transportation is also practiced. In 2011, Almaty launched its own metro line - short and not the most convenient, but worth attention if only because of the stations themselves, decorated with traditional oriental pomp. You can pay for your subway ride with a smart card. The cost of an adult ticket is 80 tenge, a child ticket is half that. In addition, the city has its own Almaty airport and two railway stations.

Hotels in Almaty

If you want to live expensively and in style, use the Booking.com service, where they charge a symbolic 6,938 tenge (1,265 rubles) for a double room in Almaty.

The most popular hostels are Loco with its Indian interiors, Nomads, which is a 10-minute walk from the railway station, and Sky Almaty. You can book here either a private room or just a bed. Prices for a bed in a common room start from 2073 tenge (378 rubles).

How to get there

Moscow and Almaty are separated by more than 4,000 km, so the most convenient way to get to the southern capital of Kazakhstan from Russia is by air. Direct flights are provided by Aeroflot, Air Astana and Uzbekistan Airlines. In addition, there are several transit flights with transfers in St. Petersburg and Astana. With trains, things are more complicated: there are no direct routes “Moscow – Alma-Ata” yet, so you will have to make transfers to the “apple tree” city.

It so happened that “my” Central Asia has its own capital - Alma-Ata. I came here four times, spent a total of almost two months, and this, I think, is not the limit. Whatever one may say, Alma-Ata is the most comfortable city for a modern person for thousands of kilometers around: rich and, more importantly, globalized, and it’s convenient for me to relax here between trips to the patriarchal Kazakh, Kyrgyz, Uzbek, and in the future, I hope, Tajik, Turkmen and Western Chinese hinterlands. Moreover, with a view of the mountains...

Most of the time in Almaty, of course, I spent in the apartment (the mountains are still visible from the window!), but still there were walks, shopping trips, trips around the surrounding area - the fantastic land of Semirechye, and even a meeting other travelers: I have settled into this city so much that I can already drive around it. I already have a lot of posts about Almaty and the region; a lot is said there about Almaty sights, features, and general atmosphere. So now - without any special excursions, just a few sketches from a well-known city.

Alma-Ata-2 station is a dead end, but almost in the center, in contrast to the much larger transit Alma-Ata on the lower outskirts. I came here and left here many times, but only now I thought of climbing onto the overpass, from which this truly Almaty view opens up with the icy ridge of the Trans-Ili Alatau (northern ridge of the Tien Shan):

The outskirts in Almaty are not northern and southern, but lower and upper. The main landmark, respectively, is the bottom and the top, and since most of the city has a clearly defined rectangular plan, it is quite difficult to get lost here. The strangest feature of the relief is that Alma-Ata is actually flat, like St. Petersburg or Riga, but very noticeably inclined. Recently, this feature has been displayed in the signs of central streets:

In the central city Park of Panfilovtsev there is peace and quiet, a birch tree can be hugged by a Russian tourist tired of Asia, and birdhouses have recently been installed:

And at the post office near the Sayakhat bus station there are tamgas of Kazakh clans (and not only, for example, “Tore” is the Chingizids, the most eminent nobility):

One of the most characteristic decorations of the Almaty center - the figures of animals and birds inhabiting Semirechye, appeared in all my previous posts, and I should somehow bring them together... this, however, seems to be something non-local:

In the courtyard closer to the outskirts there are amateur performances by residents on the same topic, so as not to lag behind the center:

They don't forget about technology either. This truck is parked at the Raimbek-Batyr metro station, the lower terminus, which is extremely conveniently located - a 10-15 minute walk to the station and one of the bus stations:

Where would we be today without a park with fancy benches? This is opposite the Old Square, near the monument to war heroines Aliya Moldagulova and Manshuk Mametova.

The intersection of Abay and Furmanov in the very center is marked by this old style pile driver - we thought it was some half-abandoned military facility from the Cold War, but it turned out that it was just a metro construction mine, and the pile driver is quite new:

I was much more puzzled by these... let's say, melons... in the courtyard of one of the non-central districts:

One of the universities (Kazakh-French, as you can see) has Baiterek and the Eiffel Tower. It’s amazing how the Kazakhs turned this generally quite meaningless and, in my opinion, not very beautiful thing into a recognizable symbol of the nation.

And there are actually a lot of universities in Almaty, including honest Soviet ones. One of them shows another example of the concrete texture that local late Soviet architecture is so rich in:

People in Almaty are trying to be creative. Either they put up installations, then they open anti-cafes (in 2013, by 2015 they were almost gone), then they express themselves in signs. I regret that I didn’t take a photo of the cafe “La Pasija”. And here is some fierce ethnographic postmodernism “At Aunt Tanya’s” (“apa” is the oldest woman):

There is a whole network of “Antipozhar” stores with a superhero fire extinguisher in Almaty, but they may not be of local origin:

Well, number 1 is definitely this! The top inscription, by the way, is in Uzbek (“Uzbek national dishes”), the bottom one is in English, and somehow there is nothing in the state Kazakh and Russian. Yes, and there is no need, and so everything is clear:

And this is a printing salon, where, at Sardor’s request, I ordered a Russian flag (don’t think, for the Chimkent People’s Republic the flag of Uzbekistan would be more relevant). I must say that with modern means of communication, creativity penetrates here regularly, but Almaty residents still have to work and work with the service - they haven’t heard about ordering by phone, payment upon delivery or remotely from a card in this salon, you had to first go, place an order in person and pay , and pick it up in a couple of days. However, everything was done beautifully and with soul:

The local public catering industry is no less amusing - there are WILDLY (not even “very”) many of its establishments, from a restaurant to a shawarma stall, but I haven’t been able to find a good cafe in Alma-Ata until now. The food here, as in all of Central Asia, is difficult for a European, but you can still find chicken, pork, fish, as well as all sorts of moldy cheeses and Parmesan, which did not take root in Central Asian cities, but in our country are now under embargo.

A little about people. Here are a couple of sketches from the local Arbat:

A Cossack woman plays music in Panfilovtsev Park. The Semirechensk Cossacks, the first inhabitants of the city of Verny, have been desperately trying to revive throughout the post-Soviet period, which is not easy - about 2/3 of the troops were killed in the Civil War, the vast majority of the remaining went to China and further to Australia. There are several organizations of the current Cossacks, and the Semireks behave like regular Cossacks (who, as they say, “where there are two Cossacks, there are three hetmans”) - the intensity of passions can be assessed in the comments to my post about. In fact, I don’t understand this, because in essence these Cossacks are all doing a common cause - they are guarding the border of the Russian World on the CULTURAL front, reminding us by the very fact of their existence that this is not a foreign land to us.

Schoolchildren rehearse for the 70th anniversary of the Victory. They say that from the Soviet past, two values ​​are unshakable for most Kazakhstanis - Victory and Space. One of the symbols of Almaty is Panfilov’s men (after all, even despite the debunking of the legend about the “28 bravest”, this division formed in Semirechye passed its heroic path to the Baltic states), one of the symbols of all of Kazakhstan is Baikonur, after which the districts are named here, street and new buildings. And if they are still trying to shake the price of space through environmental rhetoric, then the consensus on Victory is almost stronger than the Russian one. I already wrote “from the spot”.

And on the steps of the Palace of the Republic they said goodbye to Batyrkhan Shukenov - without exaggeration, the whole of Kazakhstan mourned him:

In 2012, I wrote more about Alma-Ata - (including villages), views from the hill. In 2013, he built a whole cycle “Up Alma-Ata” - gloomy, center (and halves), prestigious and finally. I also didn’t forget about the general thing, talking about one of the most interesting features of the Tilted City -. One area then remained uncovered, approximately corresponding to those “even higher than the center”... but aside: if the center descends along the left bank of Malaya Almatinka, then this area is along its branch Vesnovka, or in Kazakh Esentai:

However, it would be more correct to say that the center descends from the Golovony ditch, which feeds the entire system and flows here from Malaya Almatinka. The frame above is a clear illustration of the regulation of local rivers - exactly one quarter of the flow was taken and blocked (by letting the water go somewhere bypassed) for some work. A little lower are neighborhoods of khrushchev houses and Stalinist low-rise buildings, and somewhere from Mukanova Street prestigious areas begin, most similar to the western half of Moscow. The residential complex "Emerald City" with towers is good for its simplicity:

At the intersection with Abai Avenue, somewhere above the Head Ditch hidden underground, three cultural and public buildings from the 1970s stand side by side. On the left bank of Vesnovka there is a small Palace of Weddings with a mosaic about Enlik and Kebek (“Kazakh Romeo and Juliet”) on the facade. Their story, of course, is beautiful and significant for the Kazakh people, but is there still a place for them at the Palace of Brocades, given the tragic ending?

On the right bank of Vesnovka is the Kazakh Drama Theater named after Auezov (1982), founded back in 1925 and moved from there to Alma-Ata following its capital status. There are generally a lot of theaters in Almaty, at least 4 more (the nondescript Russian named after Lermontov, the simple Kazakh Youth Theater, the luxurious Stalinist Kazakh Opera House and the constructivist Uyghur Theater) are shown in two posts about the center, and somewhere on the outskirts there are still the German and Korean theaters (the latter , together with the Koreans themselves, were deported here from Vladivostok), but this one is also the oldest.

26. And don’t ask why fish with legs eat stones - don’t forget that the Chui Valley is nearby.

In front of the theater is the metro station of the same name, and opposite across Abai Avenue is the circus (1970), completing the triptych:

It is atypical here in itself, but the surrounding details are more interesting:

Then I got a little lost - I walked towards the university, knowing that the landmark should be the tallest tower in Alma-Ata, “Esentai”, and mistook for it those pieces of glass that stick out from the foliage to the right of the circus. Later I found out that these were not so tall Rakhat Towers (102 m, 25 floors), from which I wandered off into some completely nondescript quarters of the large Koktem district - I had to return.

In fact, it was necessary to walk strictly along Vesnovka, in the perspective of which a multi-storey dean's office looms here and there... yes, having lived here for some time, I look at the buildings, and not at the greatness of the mountains - this is the correct pyramid of the Big Almaty Peak (3680m) :

The Kazakh National University, originally named after Kirov, and now named after al-Farabi (the great philosopher of the Arab Caliphate, who was born in what is now Kazakhstan) opened in 1934, and initially included only 2 faculty with fifty students and two dozen teachers, despite the fact that in Alma -Atya, the pedagogical institute has been operating for 6 years. I don’t know exactly where the first building of Kazakh State University was located, but it looked like this:

The current campus was built in 1977-86, and in my opinion, this is one of the most interesting late Soviet ensembles. At the entrance there is a small square with a high-rise rector’s office (75m), which in another regional center like Navoi or Termez would look more like an administration:

Opposite is the Student Barn. Nazarbayev was more prudent and named his palace not Ak-Saray (White Palace), but Ak-Orda (White Headquarters). Overall a beautiful building though:

In the middle is Al-Farabi... and students scurrying back and forth on the eve of the session. Although, in general, universities in Kazakhstan are weak and it is considered better to study in Russia.

The campus occupies two terraces of the slope, on the lower one, in addition to the Rectorate and the Palace, there are also faculties - on the left in the bushes of Geography and Environmental Management, on the right from bottom to top Mechanics and Mathematics, Physics and Technology and Chemical Technology:

On the second terrace there are all sorts of institutions useful to students, such as a library or a canteen, and in a cozy little forest above, in front of the Botanical Garden, there are nondescript dormitory buildings:

Close to the university is the business center "Esentai-Park" with the 38-story tower "Spring" ("Esentai"), the tallest building in the city (168m), and in all of Central Asia (after all, Astana, like the whole of Northern Kazakhstan, is traditionally the latter does not apply, but there they have already taken the line of 200 meters). In economic terms, Almaty, of course, easily “does” Tashkent, but it lags further and further behind Urumqi, the capital of Xinjiang, the only city with a population of one million in desert Western China.

When it comes to culture, I suspect the three listed above are completely reversed: I won’t say anything about Urumqi, but locals have complained to me more than once about the poverty of Almaty’s cultural life. In general, comparing riotous Alma-Ata and decorous Tashkent is a separate topic.
To the right of "Esentai" on the slope is the complex of jumps "Sunkar" (2010), built for the 2011 Asian Games, and behind them the mountain outskirts already begin - the slope goes in folds, and in some places the famous apple orchards where the Almaty aport grows have not yet been cut down for construction (Let me remind you here that the Kazakh “Almaty” is translated as “Apple”). To the left of the ski jumps is the village of the collective farm "Mountain Giant", on the site of which the Panfilov division was formed during the war.

This time I also went to the mountains. In 2012, I went to, where the famous high-mountain ice stadium Medeu and the Chimbulak ski resort; in 2013 I went to a wilder one, but at the same time completely suburban to the lake of the same name. In 2015, with those same other travelers (very nice guys from St. Petersburg whom I met in Bukhara), I went to Medeu again:

Both shots are on a mudflow dam. And if in the city there was pleasant partly cloudy weather and slight coolness, then in the mountains it was +9 degrees and mild. Chimbulak ahead is drowning in a cloud:

Slopes damaged by a hurricane a couple of years ago:

A luxurious cable car built for the same Asian Games 2011 - the journey on it takes at least 20 minutes:

However, we took the cable car down and took a taxi for three to the top. The driver turned out to be a bit of a guide, and showed us a place that I missed on my last visit, halfway from the mudflow dam to Chimbulak - Gorelnik. This is the name of a stream at the mouth of which there is an underground spring - warm water flows from the pipe, smelling strongly of hydrogen sulfide. It comes from a 320-meter-deep well drilled in 1959, but the nondescript house behind a double fence is much more serious - a seismic station has been operating in it since 1980. And although “an earthquake cannot be predicted” is a hackneyed phrase, in fact it is also incorrect: before the shocks, the chemical composition of the mineral water changes slightly, and the small earthquakes that periodically happened in Semirechye were actually foreseen here. Natural disasters are seriously feared in Almaty, yet the city of Verny was destroyed in 1887 and 1911 by earthquakes, and in 1921 by a mudslide. Just a week ago, a mudflow hit one of the outskirts - there were no fatalities, but about 1,000 people were evacuated, and countless boulders had to be removed from the streets. Local horror stories include the breakthrough of the Big Almaty Lake and catastrophic earthquakes, “which happen once every hundred years, that is, just about now!”

Pedestrian bridge over the Gorelnik gorge:

On Malaya Almatinka itself, someone apparently had a good time (judging by the absence of an obelisk nearby, no casualties):

The houses of Chimbulak look good from the cable car - this is not a settlement, but a resort, all of them are for rent. “Carpathian” and “Norwegian” architecture look good in the damp darkness:

On the main site of Chimbulak. There is nowhere to warm up here, and the restaurants are more expensive than other Moscow ones:

The cable cars here are different (in the frame above you can see the beginning of one of them), they go into the cloud:

Despite the cold, we still dine on the pies we had stored, hiding under the terrace from the drizzle - although what’s the point of hiding if we’re inside a cloud? But a gust of wind tears away the covers from the nearby peaks:

And after about 15 minutes the haze recedes:

You can rise even higher, right into the thick of the clouds. In Almaty, as usual, the higher the higher, the more prestigious, and therefore above Chimbulak you can see the wooden mansions of Nazarbayev and our omnipresent Putin:

Even higher will be the monument to the Dead Climbers and the Tuyuksu Gate pass - they are in the old post. To sea level - about 2400 meters, to the city - one and a half kilometers vertically, to the center closer than from the center to the outskirts, and a little further than from here to the Kyrgyz border.

And yet, the more I get to know Alma-Ata, the less I like it. Perhaps this would be true for the vast majority of cities, but it just so happens that I spent the most time in Alma-Ata in places that were not my home. And I still like coming here as a guest, admiring the mountains, being amazed at the signs, walking along the already familiar streets, officially named after the Kazakh warriors, and among the people - like in the good old days... but I want to stay here for a long time less and less, from a couple of weeks to a month - and okay. And it’s not even a matter of “attitude towards Russians” (I can imagine how, reading the previous lines, some readers are rubbing their hands), I mainly communicated with Russians here, and they talked much less about their attitude towards themselves than in Riga, for example. It seems to me that this is the tragedy of Alma-Ata, that only against the backdrop of the surrounding outback (we’re not talking about Kazakhstan, but about the whole of Central Asia), the world of patriarchal villages and mahallas, poor dusty cities, bazaars, mazars, collective taxis, registrations in 3-day terms, unaccustomed to the dissent of people, it seems like a shining metropolis. The further I go, the more life here seems to me to be profound, disproportionate to budgets and salaries, provincial, even when compared with regional centers of Russia of similar size such as Yekaterinburg, Kazan or Novosibirsk (with the exception, most likely, of business circles with whom I never had the opportunity to communicate ). However, about other Central Asian cities, including Tashkent, such a thought never even occurred to me - “I could live there,” so all the same, Alma-Ata is the best city in its corner of the Earth, in which it is better to be a guest than a resident.

The sun always shines in Almaty! After gray Moscow, this is just some kind of holiday! I had already begun to forget what the winter sun was, but Kazakhstan restored my faith in miracles!

Many of my readers from Almaty were expecting harsh criticism, but today I have to praise the city. Almaty has begun to carry out very correct reforms! Many cities in the post-Soviet space have changed a lot, take Baku for example. But few people set a course for a city convenient for people. Several years ago, similar reforms began in Moscow, and now Alma-Ata is following the same path!

I don't know whether they will succeed or not. Judging by Panfilov Street, there are problems with implementation, but it is important that the right direction is chosen.

And we still have a lot to learn from Alma-Ata.

Let's start with the most important thing!

01. Unlike many Russian cities, Alma-Ata does not die out in winter, but continues to live and function normally. For example, municipal bike sharing still operates here, and many people use it even in snowy weather. In Moscow, in the fall, all bicycles are taken to a warehouse, since the mayor’s office believes that no one will ride in winter. In Almaty, the akimat is staffed by advanced people who understand that you can ride a bicycle around the city all year round! I hope Sobyanin will visit Kazakhstan, see how rental works there, and stop removing bicycles in Moscow in winter.

02. The same applies to street verandas of cafes and restaurants. Despite the frost they continue to work. In Russia, if an entrepreneur decides to build a street terrace in front of his establishment in winter, he will be fined and forced to dismantle it. We believe that an outdoor terrace should only be available in summer.

03. Alma-Ata skating rink) It was simply made in the center on one of the wide streets. Cool too.

04. Street cooking. Here they prepare pilaf and sell freshly squeezed juices and pasties. It is customary for us to close such stalls for the winter.

05. Even in Almaty, the reconstruction of the city center continues. The program was launched last year specifically to make the city more pedestrian-friendly. Akim (mayor) of Almaty Bauyrzhan Baibek is very determined in this regard. He made many categorical statements about the need to free the city from the dominance of cars, create high-quality infrastructure for pedestrians and cyclists, design a convenient public transport system and free the streets from visual garbage. The akim decided to look up to European cities, and therefore he invited Jan Geil to visit him so that he could give his recommendations.

06. Despite this, design and reconstruction work is not always carried out well. In addition, the whole process is accompanied by typical problems: dissatisfaction with motorists, complaints from local residents and accusations of sawing. But the authorities do not give up their ideas. They have big plans, and in terms of the scale of reconstruction in the post-Soviet space, Almaty is probably in second place after Moscow. It's nice that the city is developing in the right direction.

07. Plan for the reconstruction of the local Arbat. Officially, this street is called Zhibek Zholy, which translates as the Silk Road. And the architect had the idea to reflect its history in landscaping. The architect, by the way, is the same one who did Panfilov Street.

08. The project was relatively good. A broken white path was to be laid out in the middle of the street, symbolizing the Silk Road. They wanted to install bronze inserts with the names of the cities that this path crossed. Also on this path they were going to put a sculptural composition of several large figures of camels. And the rest of the space was to be filled with sports and children's playgrounds, stalls with drinks and food, street cafes and green recreation areas.

09. But the reality turned out to be harsh. Apparently, at some point the architect decided to settle on a white strip of tiles in the middle of the street and wooden benches.

10. The Almaty residents did not wait for any green hills, no sheds, or camels.

11. Many city residents were very disappointed with the result. They were especially outraged by the lack of greenery and trees in the amount in which it was promised. The planting of trees was generally celebrated with great fanfare, and the townspeople were really looking forward to it. Everyone wanted to take a walk along a shady, cool street in the summer, but now it’s clear that this won’t be possible.

12.

On the positive side, it should be noted that during the reconstruction several underground passages were replaced with above-ground ones. This is actually very cool. Old panoramas show that, despite the underground passage, people crossed the road on top. This once again proves that off-street crossings in the city center are harmful and provoke people to break the rules.

Now we've made a zebra.

13. This is what the new transitions look like, the green signal is called by the button. I noticed that not all residents know this.

14. It is very strange that they decided not to illuminate the crossing with anything at night. Backlighting is a must.

15. Bus stops are clean, no one puts advertisements on them. The police closely monitor this, and in case of violation, they punish both the poster himself and the company for which he works with fines. And the stops themselves could have been made more closed, especially for the harsh Almaty climate.

16. Almaty is the only city in Kazakhstan that has a trolleybus. It developed very rapidly until the 90s, but due to the ensuing crisis, the authorities began to close routes and dismantle the contact network. Of the 25 routes that existed at that time, only eight have survived today.

17. But unlike many Russian cities, now in Almaty they understand that trolleybuses are a modern and promising transport. The authorities have updated the entire rolling stock of the trolleybus fleet, and now it consists of Chinese vehicles of the Neoplan Kazakhstan model. Their age is no more than 10 years. There are practically no dedicated trolleybus lanes in the city, but judging by statements, the authorities are working on it. The akimat also promised to build a high-speed tram (for some reason they managed to cut out the regular one) and establish a good bus network.

18. I have already mentioned that a paid parking system was recently launched in Almaty. Of course, people were hostile to the innovation and refused to pay for parking for a long time. A bunch of angry statements immediately appeared on social networks about the fact that it was swindlers who were robbing civilians - for a long time people did not understand why they should pay for something that they could previously use for free. But the management company persistently and in detail explained the need for paid parking through the local media, and over time, people got used to it.

True, problems still continued to arise. For example, paid parking lots were immediately flooded with illegal immigrants in vests, who began collecting fees from motorists on behalf of the management company. We had to fight them quite long and hard. Another problem was that motorists began to demand that someone guard their cars, it’s not in vain that they pay money. And here, too, the management company had to carry out explanatory work. People were told that they were paying for the use of municipal land and that no one was obligated to guard their troughs parked on the sidewalks.

People still continue to complain. Some complain that parking is too expensive, others don’t like that they are located far from popular shops or institutions. At the same time, no one is in a hurry to switch to public transport, and many still drive cars, preferring to leave them in the courtyards of other people’s houses instead of paying for municipal parking.

As for paid parking, I can say that they are very cheap and there are few of them. The entire center should be made payable and illegal parking should be combated.

19. Kazakhstani parcel terminals with automated delivery of parcels. The system is very similar to the Russian PickPoint.

20. Furmanov Street, at the numerous requests of workers, was renamed Nursultan Nazarbayev Avenue back in November. Thus, the authorities and townspeople unanimously decided to thank the president for all the good that he did for Almaty during his endless reign)

21. The city also has its own ski resort! Not visiting Shymbulak during a trip to Almaty is the same as not coming to Krasnaya Polyana during a visit to Sochi.

22. Shymbulak greets guests with instructions in three languages ​​on how to behave in the event of a terrorist threat. It won't be too much!

23. The climb starts from Medeo.

24. Shymbulak is located at an altitude of 2260 meters, approximately 20 kilometers from the city. At first it was an ordinary sports base, opened back in 1954. Alpine skiers trained there and championships of the USSR and Kazakhstan were held. In the 80s, a hotel, a medical center, additional ski lifts and other infrastructure began to be built here, and gradually this place turned from a sports facility into a new tourist center.

25. Local architecture.

26.

27. In general, in terms of architecture, everything is done very well! I was pleasantly surprised by the design of the buildings.

28.

29. Straight France!

30. Beauty

31.

32. By the way, various championships of Kazakhstan are still held here. In addition, in 2011, stages of alpine skiing competitions took place here as part of the Asian Winter Games, and last year - as part of the World Winter Universiade.

33. In addition to skiing and snowboarding, here you can fly by helicopter or paraglider, hike, mountain bike, go on an off-road excursion and ride horses. For children there is a camp, a ropes course and a trampoline center.

34. In winter, the resort sells season passes. A subscription for children under 10 years old costs 150 thousand tenge, for people from 11 to 23 years old - 210 thousand tenge, and for adults - 290 thousand tenge. It gives you the right to ski and use the ski lifts without restrictions throughout the season and also provides a free parking space. Regular one-day passes for adults cost 6,500 tenge on weekdays and 9,500 tenge on weekends, and when purchasing a pass on the website you can get a 25% discount. Renting a standard set of skis or snowboard costs another 5,000 tenge.

35. The slopes themselves are primitive and boring.

36.

37. There is still little snow.

38. Recently an international forum about digital technologies in economics and entrepreneurship was held here.

39. Russian Il-96 at Almaty airport. Medvedev arrived on it. The next day after I left, Shymbulak was closed to visitors and our prime minister skated there. People were told that they were fighting avalanches.

40.

41. An old cargo An-26 in the service of border guards.

42. The Tu-136 has been in storage here since last year.

43.

44. Government Kazakh aircraft.

Russia:

Adler: /
Alushta:
Arkhangelsk: / /
Bryansk: /
Velikiy Novgorod:
Vladivostok: /
Vladimir: /
Voronezh: / /
Gelendzhik: /
Grozny: /
Ekaterinburg: /
Zheleznovodsk:
Izhevsk: /
Irkutsk:
Yoshkar-Ola: /
Kazan: /
Koenigsberg: /
Korsakov:
Kostroma: /
Krasnoyarsk: / / /
Magas: /
Magnitogorsk:
Makhachkala: /
Mikhailovsk:
Nizhny Novgorod: /
Nizhny Tagil:
Novorossiysk:: /
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